Is the check engine light on?? Any codes?? Misfire codes P0300 series codes?? Does your scanner scan for transmission error codes??

You have the CVT (automatic) transmission, any transmission issues prior to this??

If you leave the car in park, and rev it to about 3,000 rpm, does the engine jump/vibrate?? How about neutral??

Is this jump/vibration only in Drive?? How about Reverse??

 

No codes what so ever and did a tune up 200 milers ago and went the the average mid race priced coil packs and plugs . It Mostly jumps when putting in reverse it moves a good 1.5” not so much in drive. And the Vibration seems to be suddle when accelerating and crusing. It’s more noticeable at idle

 

OK... just thinking out loud, here. You replaced all of the mounts including the transmission mount. The engine does not jump or vibrate if its in park or neutral when you raise the rpm's.

The "jump" is the most pronounced when you shift into reverse.

How is the transmission if you "stomp" on the gas pedal leaving a light?? Does the transmission make any noise?? slow to accelerate?? feel like its slipping?? Have you been keeping up with the CVT fluid change intervals??

In an empty parking lot, turn the steering wheel all the way to the right and make a slow circle, any strange noises or issues?? Repeat for the left, anything of note?? I just want to rule out a damaged CV joint/front axle. Maybe inspect the CV joints boots (both ends of the axles), any rips/tears in the rubber??

It's more noticeable at idle when you are in Drive?? but not noticeable when you are in park/neutral??

 

Yes, it fades away when your raise the rpm’s I was thinking a vacuum related issue possibly and no I’ve lacked at the maintence for the cvt. You know know you mentioned it it does feel like it slips time to time and a “chatter” when slowing down only once in a while. Also I will look at it tonight about the boots. Also if your parked and foot on the break the. I viberation doesn’t change until you give it the slightest bit of gas

 

There are "balancing shafts" in the engine that are supposed to dampen vibration. I'm trying to determine if this is more an engine issue or a transmission issue.

Based on your last post, I'm leaning towards this being a transmission issue. I don't want to condemn the CVT -- just yet.

How many miles on the car?? And how many CVT fluid changes can you remember having done??

This is a simplified explanation, but when you step on the gas the torque converter in the transmission acts kind of like a pump and starts the process of pumping the automatic transmission fluid into the system to make the car go.

Automatic transmissions are my weak area. I've only worked on a few older style "band" automatics. I've mainly worked on manual transmission cars. I may need to defer to other posters that are more familiar with the inner workings of a CVT transmission. I do know there is one guy on this forum who is rebuilding his CVT.

 

hmm interesting kinda in the same boat. I’ve worked on Hondas and old dodges my entire life. Also i believe we’re around 168,xxx miles I personally haven’t done yet I got the stuff the dealership said it was fully serviced 2 months ago when it was bought. That’s was uh 30,40 thousands ago But what about. The jerking think I was lucky and bought a bad mount ? I can eat the cost and buy another name brand if you got good recommendations. I’ll service it so I know it’s good and easier to keep track of I’ll let ya know if it changes anything for the viberation

 

Personally, I've always used Anchor Mounts. I've had good luck with them.

It wouldn't hurt to inspect the mounts, but I'm having a hard time believing a mount would fail immediately after installation. I guess its possible, but it seems unlikely.

OK... so you purchased the car used with 100K+ on the clock, correct?? If so, it is really hard to know how the previous owner treated the CVT.

 

Update * I serviced the cvt. The fluid was absolutely horrible. Smelt slightly burnt but I’ve been around worse. So what’s your opinion on this I’m going to run it and do another flush change the filter I mean it wouldn’t hurt right? The vibration is still there tho but it drives so so much better

 

How did the CV joints/front axles look?? Any splits in the boots?? Damage??

Let's try a little experiment... Is there a large hill you can (safely) roll down?? If so, shift to neutral and roll down the hill, any vibration??

 

little late on the reply come to find out I over torqued the motor mounts not allowing them to do their “job” so to speak recalibrated my torque wrench. And started from the beginning and re torqud, cleaned , took my damn time and not rush it like I did and no vibrations, not jumps , runs better then it did when bought! THANK YOU GUYS FOR THE KNOWLEDGE I APPRECIATE VERY MUCH

 

Uh, you cannot overtorque mounts to make them rattle. They are made where they still work free even at way over torque spec. You CAN however get sloppy and place one in the hole play to where an extension of the mount can slightly touch something and that will definitely

Amazon mounts typically if not now will rattle later, they are ALL Chinese and worst of the worst. Anchor being one of the bad companies, they are all owned by a Chinese consortium that makes up different brand names to make you think they are different companies. Anchor, DEA, Westar, NAPA, and others all are in that group and the rubber used is the most horrible on earth for mounts. When I did parts hundreds brought those brands back and I personally rejected countless more that were leaking damping fluid new in the boxes. Just on Ford Focus cars I had them vibrate new out of box to shake your face off, and physical breakage all over the map from a few days before coming apart to up to one year and very common. They would blow the top bladder cover and impact pate out and that plate was 1/8" thick and about a good 4 inches in diameter and it falls right into the belt run to tear the engine up. I've hated Anchor since my first bad one that shook worse then the 'bad' one back in '88.

There are no balancer shafts in the Versa HR or MR engines, only the bigger ones like 2.5 have them. The smaller engines do not have enough internal room to have them.

 

Wellllllllll there lad did the exact same thing in the exact same order as previously and the issues is gone even better then before so okay maybe not over torque maybe I had the engine tweaked a bit causing a vibration. Maybe a I’m a retard an diidnt do it right the first time I don’t have a solid answer but I know what I did it worked might help someone I don’t but by hey fixed is fixed right ?👌

 

Oh, and in an ATX the oil pump turns at all times, the back snout of converter or a separate driveshaft turn it driven directly by the crankshaft. The trans will tear up just like a motor with no oil pump turning at all times. You got a couple hundred parts spinning even in park and neutral.

 

CVT way simpler than oldschool ATX and why Nissan wants them. Not only the replacement cash but also because they lose maybe 300 parts the normal ones have so a big profit win there too. Then you tell the public how wonderful and magical they are and they ARE fantastic when working right. Then when they don't everybody is so afraid of them they trust in literally everything said about them. They sell in whole trans at once because nobody understands how they work. If the new modified helix CVT ones ever get made they will throw everybody for a loop.