Nissan Versa Forums banner

have you had any engine failures or issues - post here!

123K views 165 replies 88 participants last post by  Ronnie1  
#1 ·
A lot of us are getting curious to see how many versa owners have had engine failures, issues etc....

if you have, please post your year, type of motor, etc and what issue you have experienced.

i will sticky this thread so we have quick access to these issues.
 
#2 ·
I've got the really bad piston slap as well as the extremely long crank times. Piston slap is only really noticeable during cold starts, and the long crank time was around for a few months last winter/spring (february, march, april) and I haven't seen it since. I haven't had a failure though.
 
#6 ·
Warrior: I also have MR18 2011 HB, 12000 miles and the cold startup ticking too. Went to the dealer in October and then again in December. Both times the tech “ confirmed” that it is normal. The tech and I did take a test drive in the car from a cold over night start and we did drive it for 10 miles.
I honestly can’t buy that answer being normal as there is no place in the manual where they list piston slap as normal. < grin> They did document that the noise is piston slap

I called 800nissan1 last week and after getting drilled on the phone by the customer service person, I was told that a factory rep would call. Got the call from the factory rep and the person told me if the dealer did not find anything wrong, she could not do anything. Again, I can’t buy that answer either.

Any suggestions?
 
#26 ·
You might accidentally push the button with your thumb when you park up for the night. A lot of my friends do it because as their getting out they grasp the entire knob in preparation of leaving. Anyways its the tiny black button on the left side of your shifter if your in America/Canada. Might be opposite in the U.K. and Europe. Ideally you should leave O/D on even when you don't feel you need it as it improves fuel economy on hard accelerations and stop-gos.
 
#5 ·
2009 SL Hatch with CVT. MR18DE. Cylinder 3 failure started at 65,000 miles.

Started as light tapping in the cold in winter of 2010. Would be ok when warm. By mid 2011 it was tapping no matter the temp and even once warm. Started experiencing massive oil burning. Oil light came on twice in a month before I realized something was very wrong. By winter of 2011 had a very obvious lump at idle. Engine would die unless I came to very light stop. Replaced engine @ 84,000 miles new years weekend 2012 with MR20DE. After 600 miles new engine running great, no check engine light.

Original info here

Video of engine once it started going bad.


**** PLEASE LIST THE FAILED CYLINDER IF KNOWN *******
 
#32 ·
2009 SL Hatch with CVT. MR18DE. Cylinder 3 failure started at 65,000 miles.

Started as light tapping in the cold in winter of 2010. Would be ok when warm. By mid 2011 it was tapping no matter the temp and even once warm. Started experiencing massive oil burning. Oil light came on twice in a month before I realized something was very wrong. By winter of 2011 had a very obvious lump at idle. Engine would die unless I came to very light stop. Replaced engine @ 84,000 miles new years weekend 2012 with MR20DE. After 600 miles new engine running great, no check engine light.

Original info here

Video of engine once it started going bad.

MR18 Running like crap, dieing, ticking - YouTube

**** PLEASE LIST THE FAILED CYLINDER IF KNOWN *******
Sounds like your block was cracked on a cylinder containing one of the spark plugs. The only way we would have known is if you took the plastic gaurd off and showed us the cylinders. Then again you would have been able to tell as it would have oil all over it lol.

Next time bring it in sooner as the longer you wait the more compromised the engine becomes.
 
#10 · (Edited)
^yes for sure drops faster after 1/2 full mark. On economical tankfuls, I put on 400km at half way, but i've only made it to 700km once for a full tank. So normally I'm at 350 to 400 km at half way mark, 600-650 on a full tank when driving economically. I've also never been able to go 100km before the gas gauge moves...Usually 60 to 90 km depending on fill level
PS i have very little urban driving, sometimes none at all
edit sorry i should be in an mpg thread:)
 
#11 ·
I haven't had any engine trouble but I do have a whistling noise when I'm coming to a stop. Seems to be coming from the wheels, sorry can't remember if the front or rear once. It is hell of annoying though lol.
 
#12 ·
2011 hb 1.8 sl

No engine noises yet. Only have 5K so far. When A/C comp comes on it sounds like a brick fell on the hood though !! I do like the little fella, so I hope it won't turn out to be a piston slapper. had that issue with a Chevy ZZ383 motor I put in my Suburban. Should have left it alone. By the time the dealer finished tearing up everything I had meticulously assembled, I wound up with a cross threaded, stripped out, oil leaking POS !
 
#14 ·
Brakes seem to be working fine but that is probably a good idea. I'm just too lazy to drive 30+ miles to my dealer to have to wait there for 3-4 hours while they check it. Eventually I'll get to it, if my brakes don't fail first lol.
 
#15 ·
Trouble after trouble

Bought the Versa new in 2007, had engine changed due to noisy engine, thought it was valves. They changed the engine. Now just past the five year mark, with 23000 km on the new engine at a year and half old, and same noisy valve problem. Service engine soon light since two weeks now, and noticed yesterday hesitation when going into second gear. Trouble code shows 1142 for TPS. Called Nissan parts, they didn't know what TPS is. I believe the throttle position sensor to be just at the pedal. Does it need changed or is it maybe a wiring problem? Your help would be appreciated. Challenger 300.
 
#17 ·
I'm hoping my engine runs perfectly for about another year and then promptly craps out on me. I wanna get all the warranty time out of it and then have it die so I can do the mr20 swap :D
 
#21 ·
dear all,
i recently bough a Nissan Tiida Latio; Imported from Japan. MR18DE Engine with CVT gearbox. kept driving for almost a week as was trying to finish the paper work here in Namibia. There was a small dent on the fender due to off loading. i fixed it at a local panel beater and collected the car. i observed that some areas need to be polished so the panel beater shop said i must leave next morning and get during lunch. when i went to collect the car during luch, the guy drove the car out for me and gave me the key. i stated and put the car in reverse. suddenly the car died and wont start lthough will crank. i left the car there. they disconnected the terminals and reconnected when i went after work. it started, i drove almost 5 KMs and was close to my place when the car died again and never started. i towed the car to a mechanic who is good in japanese imports. he said, it was starter motor, replaced, no change. he replaced crank shaft sensor, no change. now he ays it is computer box. i am very worried, can some body help?
 
#30 ·
That crank noise is good my friend. it means your starter is functioning and starting as it should. Whats kinda cool to think about but not cool to have it happen to you is that while your car runs it should be rechaqrging the juice used for starting, lights, radio, what ever. It sounds like the part of the car that does this recharging (which I believe is called the alternator) may not be functioning as it should. That would explain your starts and then slowly no starts at all.
 
#23 ·
I haven't had any issues (she's still new 3k+ on her). But I am curious...
Those of you who are having issues, did you do any mods under the hood?
Maybe with this thread we could list the mods that were done along with the list Frenchy chan stated.
 
#24 ·
2009 Versa S MR18

Late 2011, I kept getting the check engine light with P1421 - Cold start ignition control.
No one could give me a clear answer as to what exactly this was as my car still acted perfectly normal. Took it to Nissan and they kept it for a day and gave me a Sentra to drive in the meantime while they fixed it. It was covered by my warranty though and the tech said it was "basically a sensor problem"

/shrug
 
#27 ·
With 35,000 miles on a 2011 Versa S 1.8 the engine has been making a noise that I thought was a valve problem. The dealer informed me that it needed a new engine block assembly. Does thiis make sense to anyone? Should they extend the warranty after replacing the block?
Seems like their just replacing a piece of plastic or the metal frame. If its even slightly off what your referring to basically is your engine is not sitting properly that is it is favoring one side or corner more then it should be. Let them replace it as it is a unique issue. Perhaps a lot of 2011 will be recalled? Sadly warranty extensions are bad for business as the purpose of most dealership warranties or factory warranties are to protect your vehicle up until about the time the parts start to fail. I take the steps of fluid changing/flushing/rust removal/ and part replacement just to be sure I'll have a versa after I hit 100k miles and 10 years.
 
#34 ·
We've seen engines blow at lower mileage. If it truly is done for, I'd look into the MR20 swap. If you're able to do the work yourself, the engines are fairly inexpensive.
 
#36 ·
Mine has started to tick more now that its gettng colder out I'm hoping it lasts at least a bit longer for me then when it goes I'm goin to the mr20