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Jenna 1 ca hi my sons 2011 Nissan versa with 65000 miles also has
low compression on number 3 cylinder and like you Nissan refuses
to do anything and he even has an extended warranty 100000 miles
they say lack of maint even with his receipts
 

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I just found out from our local mechanic that my 2011 Nissan Versa has low to almost no compression on the #3 cylinder and spark plug was covered in oil (no wonder my oil level kept reading low) which he tells me I'll need a new engine. The check engine light was blinking and the engine went rough, so I had it towed. I called Nissan and asked what they are doing about this known issue. They issued me a case number and told me to have a Nissan authorized service center diagnose the issue, then a regional Nissan consumer affairs specialist will review the case as the vehicle is no longer under warranty. Yes, I had to have the car towed from the local mechanic to the authorized Nissan service center and pay another diagnostics!

Does anyone have any similar issues with low compression and experience with Nissan consumer affairs specialist? Hoping I can get some answers on how to handle getting this covered through Nissan. It's still pretty new and there's not even 100,000 miles on the vehicle. Aren't Nissans supposed to run longer than that?

Any insight would be greatly appreciated!
I purchased a 2009 Versa sedan new, and at about 5,000 miles, I heard a what I diagnosed as a "piston slap". Brought it in to my dealership, and had them diagnose it, and at that time the tech said it was a fuel injection pulse noise and it was normal. I made sure that the visit was documented, and received a copy of the issue. As time progressed, the noise became louder, and just prior to the warranty expiring, I again brought the car in, only this time there was no way they were going to dismiss my concerns. The service manager listened to the noise along with his top mechanic, and it was indeed diagnosed as a "piston slap" in the number 3 cyl., and a new short block was installed at no cost to me. There are some Versa owners that have had that noise, and have gone over 100,000 miles with no breakdowns, and then there are others that have gone less than 50,000 miles and the engine starts to burn oil and lose power. All my maintenance was done at the dealer I purchased the car at, and there was no question that proper maintenance was done. This "piston slap" issue is caused by the piston skirt being too short, which allows the piston to rock back and forth within the cylinder. This in tern can cause to rings to start to fail, in which case, you use more oil, and lose compression. If your car is out of warranty, I don't know if there is anything you can do except hope that they would make a "Good Will" repair. Good luck!!
 

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I must have gotten the best motor out of their plant haha! I got my 2007 Versa S hatchback 1.8 with over 70k miles already on it and racked up 100k on it in two and a half years. I beat the snot out of the car on a daily basis and regularly Autocross it. I've never done any kind of maintenance to the motor beyond the regular fluid changes. I did four HPDE's this last summer and at the last one the motor finally blew with 172k miles on the odometer. I couldn't ask for a more reliable car and motor. People in my area are impressed with its reliability.
 

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2016 versa S . 1.6
At 490 miles they have pulled the engine and the new one is being installed today. Yes the knock was so loud at only 490 miles i was afraid to drive it. I will keep everyone posted on this new engine and results!
 

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I purchased a new 2015 Versa Note S in early March 2016. Joined this and other forums shortly thereafter. Thanks to a thread from “gonzagnr” entitled “hr16de owners-must read” and many other discussions primarily on Nissan Micra (Canada) forum, I learned of a potential problem with this engine. I listened to and tested my vehicle as advised in these threads and found that I clearly had the engine knock problem. Vehicle had less than 700 miles. I made a video of the knocking as demonstrated in these threads and went to the dealership. After some frustration, I got the Service Manager to listen/view my video. He acknowledged the noise and asked for a copy of the video to provide to Nissan engineering, which I did provide. Within a week I met with a representative from Nissan North America at the dealership; we test drove my vehicle and a new (2016) Note off-the-lot (to compare engine sound) and then he kept my vehicle for additional testing. Later he called to say they were going to replace the engine. They kept my vehicle until the job was done, approx. one week later (issued free loaner car). The invoice states (in part) “customer states there is a knocking noise in the bottom end of the engine. Nissan DTS confirmed customer noise…DTS killed #2 Cyl and knocking noise went away…DTS advised to replace long block…and the primary failed part is the rod bearing…“
Old engine number *HR16*75xxxxJ
New engine number *HR16*79xxxxL
The new engine now has 1000 miles on it and sounds pretty good, much better than the old one where you could hear the knocking from the driver’s seat, but I’ve not really gotten down below it with a recorder to test it. I plan to put on some miles on it and keep listening for any problems.
 

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WOW, I have the same car but bought mine in 2015. I bet that was a crazy ordeal, I can't imagine how much work that was. Nissan really did a stand up job replacing your motor, did they say the old engine serial # is linked to the problem? +1Q
 

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Yes, it was an ordeal. Really not happy to buy a new vehicle with a defective engine, but I have to say that the dealership and the rep from Nissan North America did a good job of making it right (at least it sounds good so far). The dealer/Nissan did not discuss engine numbers nor indicate any engine problems beyond my vehicle, so I can't answer your question. I do know that the Note has the HR16DE engine, so that is the *HR16* in the engine number, then six numbers followed by a letter. I've heard that the letter may indicate the production time of the engine in alpha order, e.g., the "J" engine is an earlier build than the "L" engine, but that is from what I have seen on other forums. Not sure at all about the six numbers, but they must mean something; some posters suggest the first two indicate a series. I put the engine numbers in my post because others may know more and find the info useful.
 

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I purchased a new 2015 Versa Note S in early March 2016. Joined this and other forums shortly thereafter. Thanks to a thread from “gonzagnr” entitled “hr16de owners-must read” and many other discussions primarily on Nissan Micra (Canada) forum, I learned of a potential problem with this engine. I listened to and tested my vehicle as advised in these threads and found that I clearly had the engine knock problem. Vehicle had less than 700 miles. I made a video of the knocking as demonstrated in these threads and went to the dealership. After some frustration, I got the Service Manager to listen/view my video. He acknowledged the noise and asked for a copy of the video to provide to Nissan engineering, which I did provide. Within a week I met with a representative from Nissan North America at the dealership; we test drove my vehicle and a new (2016) Note off-the-lot (to compare engine sound) and then he kept my vehicle for additional testing. Later he called to say they were going to replace the engine. They kept my vehicle until the job was done, approx. one week later (issued free loaner car). The invoice states (in part) “customer states there is a knocking noise in the bottom end of the engine. Nissan DTS confirmed customer noise…DTS killed #2 Cyl and knocking noise went away…DTS advised to replace long block…and the primary failed part is the rod bearing…“
Old engine number *HR16*75xxxxJ
New engine number *HR16*79xxxxL
The new engine now has 1000 miles on it and sounds pretty good, much better than the old one where you could hear the knocking from the driver’s seat, but I’ve not really gotten down below it with a recorder to test it. I plan to put on some miles on it and keep listening for any problems.
i have hard from some people that after 30k km the new engine started knocking again, so keep an eye one it and performe the knock test from time o time.
aparently, most of previous L engines are defective, some knock less, some knock more, but almost all defective.
with L series engines, problem seems to have been fixed.
 

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I will keep an eye on it and perform the test from time to time. And thanks so much for your original post "hr16de owner's-must read". That post got me started listening to my engine and testing for knock using gentle acceleration and recording the results as described in the post. I believe that the recording of my engine knocking was key to getting the dealer to move forward and replace the engine, so thanks for your efforts on this topic.
 

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I will keep an eye on it and perform the test from time to time. And thanks so much for your original post "hr16de owner's-must read". That post got me started listening to my engine and testing for knock using gentle acceleration and recording the results as described in the post. I believe that the recording of my engine knocking was key to getting the dealer to move forward and replace the engine, so thanks for your efforts on this topic.
if one of these day if you have some free time with warm engine can you record a video from under oil pan of your new engine performing the steps of the rod knock test??
i would like to hear how it sounds one of these non faulty engines.
i no longer have the nissan thank god, but i am just curious lol.
 

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we bought a 2014 with 29000 on it and i was hearing rod float. new short block under warranty.
is the new engine knock free????

another guy from argentina reporting knock in versa 2015 16k km.
heard the noise since day 1, but took him this time for the dealer to reckon the problem.
at least they did not lie in the end "problem is bad clearence in rod bearings".
 

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2016 versa- started ticking when cold at abt 2000 miles. new engine replaced at 3000 miles due to "internal cylinder head" failure. new engine making same tick but not nearly as bad.... time will tell...

this work led to the clutch needing to be replaced due to probable fluid contamination...
 

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2011 Versa, 1.8l, 62.000 miles, piston rings on cyl #2 collapsed. Pulled the timing cover, cyl head, and lower 1/2 block and pulled the pistons. Replacing all pistons, rings, and connecting rod bearings. The tranny and upper block remain in place.
 

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To start, stats: 2007 Nissan Versa Hatchback. Bought it brand new back then.

Car had trouble turning over for about a year. Random. Replaced the fuel pump that seemed to be bad. Still had the problem, but with less frequency. I'm cool with it, because not a big issue.

Go to start one day, bent valve. My car was at 65k miles, but at 7 years of ownership, Nissan wasn't going to help anyway. (I know. I asked repeatedly.) So, resurfaced the cylinder head. New battery. Good to go! No problems.

Now, starting to have problems turning over again. I changed out the air filter, but haven't got to the plugs, yet. Maybe this weekend or next I'll get those done, but hard to do with kids and birthday parties going on. I love this car, but I'm going to have a good time just wrenching since I know it's a year or two before time to upgrade.
 

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[DT2IzzyE] 2009 Nissan Versa Hatchback. "Service Engine Soon" had been on for some time. Had it diagnosed as "Check Catalytic System". Thought I had some time to get it done. Drove home from work one day. Stopped to pick up the mail. Could not restart the car. Everything electronic works fine but I get no crank, click or anything. What I do to fix this?
 

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[DT2IzzyE] 2009 Nissan Versa Hatchback. "Service Engine Soon" had been on for some time. Had it diagnosed as "Check Catalytic System". Thought I had some time to get it done. Drove home from work one day. Stopped to pick up the mail. Could not restart the car. Everything electronic works fine but I get no crank, click or anything. What I do to fix this?
Have you checked the battery? I have had batteries still light up electronics but they were too far gone to even crank the car/truck. Something easy to check.
 
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